Did you know that water can dry out your skin and that moisturizing creams almost always contain water (aqua) as the majority?
But how can it be that products do the exact opposite of what they promise?
The answer is quick: water causes the horny cells in the top layer of skin to swell and washes out the fats between the skin cells and the moisture-binding substances. This can cause the skin to gradually dry out; a feeling of tension arises. To relieve this feeling, a cream is often applied. This is quickly absorbed because the moisture it contains is absorbed by the skin like a sponge. The active ingredients such as vitamin C in creams are transported into the skin, but the vicious circle begins again at the next cleansing. The result is that the cream has to be used daily - often several times - and the skin becomes dependent on the creme. Due to the loss of the intact water-fat barrier – the so-called intact skin barrier – that protects it, the skin has forgotten how to regulate its moisture balance itself.
Every face cream is a mixture of water and fat. Emulsifiers are used to bind these immiscible liquids together. These additives are mostly synthetically produced and therefore foreign to the skin.
Facial creams are often based on a variety of ingredients, which, upon closer inspection, sound incomprehensible to most users. These often include mineral oils, preservatives and hormonally active substances that can have negative effects. Mineral oils are foreign to our bodies. They remain in the top layers of skin and create a film that seals the skin. This means it can no longer breathe properly and the skin's regeneration processes are slowed down or even prevented. Since mineral oils do not penetrate deeply into the skin, they are also not suitable for transporting active ingredients, antioxidants and vitamins into the deeper layers of the skin.
The aim of good care products should be to keep the natural skin barrier intact or to regenerate the skin's damaged protective layer. The active ingredients required for this should be transported exactly to where they can develop their effects.
Our facial oils consist of carefully selected, exclusively natural and gently processed oils and extracts, all of which come from controlled organic cultivation or wild collection.
Facial oil for every skin type
Due to their individual components, oils have different properties and care effects for the skin. Thanks to the specific combination of oils, there is a suitable facial oil for every skin type. However, this should always be tailored to the skin's current needs.
Normal skin shows no or only small deficits and therefore requires a care product that, above all, keeps the skin barrier intact and protects it. This protection is important so that the skin remains resilient. It should be able to defend itself against external harmful influences, which are often triggers for later skin problems.
Dry skin longs for appropriate fats that it can keep in the skin as well as an intact skin barrier.
But why is the skin dry?
As you have probably often experienced on your own body, water can dry out our skin, such as long baths or frequent hand washing. This mainly happens because the skin's own fats are dissolved out. This happens much faster, especially in combination with soaps that contain surfactants or saponins. After all, removing dirt and grease is the job of soap. The disadvantage, however, is that the important skin oil is removed and the natural skin barrier is destroyed.
Now the important fat is removed from the skin by washing or cleaning the facial skin and then a facial cream is usually applied. This cream - an emulsion of water and fat - provides short-term moisture, but in the long term it has the opposite effect: the skin dries out more and more and the skin barrier is destroyed.
The following points are particularly important for dry skin:
Suitable fats must be offered to the skin so that the fat layer can be rebuilt.
The natural skin barrier must be regenerated and intact so that the skin oils can be retained in the skin again.
A facial oil for dry skin must fulfill these exact functions.
Facial oil for dry skin
Dry skin tolerates a “moisturizing” facial oil – especially at the beginning of use. Oils that contain a high proportion of oleic acid are, for example, moisturizing. Examples of this are marula oil, apricot kernel oil or olive oil.
However, using a single moisturizing oil will never achieve the same effect as using the right combination of oils and active ingredients. A specific composition is therefore important in order to transport the substances exactly where they are supposed to work in order to rebuild the skin barrier.
Once the natural protective layer of the facial skin has been regenerated, you can switch to a care product for normal skin. It is then important to keep the skin barrier intact.
Oil also for impure, oily skin?
Admittedly it sounds paradoxical, but it isn't. Certain oils contain sebum-regulating ingredients. These signal to the skin that it can reduce its sebum production. Oils rich in linoleic acid are ideal for impure and oily skin. Such oils include Kalahari melon oil, argan oil, grape seed oil or hemp seed oil. They can – again in the right combination with other oils – penetrate deep into the skin and thus develop their effect. Oils with a lot of linoleic acid often also contain a high proportion of vitamin E. This vitamin is a powerful antioxidant and is often referred to as an “anti-aging vitamin”. It can have an anti-inflammatory effect and promote cell renewal. Skin blemishes and inflammation can be alleviated in this way.
People whose skin is prone to breakouts should avoid comedogenic oils. These oils have a high proportion of oleic acid, which can clog skin pores. Examples of comedogenic oils include coconut oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil and avocado oil. These oils are suitable in facial oils for dry skin, but are not recommended for skin with impurities.
Using the right facial oil for the appropriate skin condition is therefore very important.
When it comes to care products for sensitive skin, care should be taken to ensure that the proportion of essential oils is not too high or that no essential oils are present at all. Essential oils contain allergens that sensitive skin can react to with allergic reactions and skin irritation.
Mature skin often lacks elasticity and moisture or skin fat. Oils from plant seeds and nuts are particularly suitable for mature skin, as they are usually very similar to the skin's own fat. External influences can accelerate skin aging. Therefore, facial oils for mature skin should also contain photoprotective ingredients and antioxidants. The most powerful antioxidant known is natural astaxanthin. It is a carotenoid from an algae that has the properties of both catching free radicals and protecting cells actively.
Facial oil for winter
Normally, the top stratum corneum of intact skin has a moisture content of up to 40%. In winter, however, this moisture content can drop to less than 10% due to weather influences and dry heating air. As a result, the skin's natural protective barrier becomes permeable and external influences can penetrate the skin more easily. The skin is then exposed to cold, frost, snow, icy wind, UV light and pollutants with almost no protection. Subzero temperatures also cause the blood vessels under the skin to contract to keep the heat inside. The skin is supplied with less blood and is supplied with less oxygen and nutrients. At around 8 degrees Celsius, the sebaceous glands reduce the production of protective skin oil.
The result of this is often cracked, brittle and itchy skin, usually associated with a feeling of tension and flaking.
UV radiation is particularly high in winter because it is reflected by snow and ice.
In winter we should therefore particularly support our skin's natural protective layer. It is therefore advisable to use fat or oil-based care products and not water-oil emulsions such as creams.
The use of facial creams can cause frostbite on the skin in subzero temperatures because the water molecules they contain can freeze.
Special needs of the lips
Lips do not have their own sebum and sweat glands and therefore cannot produce a protective oily film. Therefore, they become easily cracked and brittle, especially in winter. Our lips are also very sensitive to UV radiation. With lip care that contains high-quality fats and light sun protection, the lips are optimally protected and remain supple.
Skin and nutrition
In addition to appropriate care, our diet is also crucial for healthy skin. This provides the building blocks for the renewal of the cells from within. The outer layer of skin, also called the epidermis, completely renews itself within about 20-30 days. The appropriate diet is therefore particularly important in relation to the skin for the prevention of skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis, acne, etc., but also as a therapy.
The right PHYSTINE facial care for your current skin condition
Impure skin / acne
For individual advice, please contact us personally.