Did you know that water can dry out your skin and moisturizing creams almost always contain water (aqua) as the largest proportion?
But how can it be that products do the exact opposite of what they promise?
The answer is quickly given: water causes the cells in the uppermost layer of the skin to swell and washes out the fats between the skin cells as well as the moisture-binding substances. As a result, the skin can gradually dry out; a feeling of tension arises. To relieve this feeling, a cream is often applied. This is quickly absorbed, as the moisture contained is absorbed by the skin like a sponge. The active ingredients such as vitamin C in creams are transported into the skin, but at the latest at the next cleansing the vicious circle begins again. The result is that the cream has to be applied daily – often even several times – and it comes to a dependency. The skin has forgotten to regulate the moisture balance itself due to the loss of the intact, protective water-fat barrier.
Each face cream is a mixture of water and fat. Emulsifiers are used to bond these immiscible liquids together. These excipients are usually synthetically produced and thus foreign to the skin.
Face creams are often based on a variety of ingredients, which sound incomprehensible to most users on closer inspection. These often include mineral oils, preservatives and hormonally active substances that can have negative effects. Mineral oils are foreign to our body. They remain in the uppermost layers of the skin and create a film there that seals the skin. As a result, it can no longer breathe properly and regeneration processes of the skin are slowed down or even prevented. Since mineral oils do not penetrate deep into the skin, they are also not suitable for transporting active ingredients, antioxidants and vitamins into the deeper layers of the skin.
The goal of good care products should be to keep the natural skin barrier intact or to regenerate the damaged protective vision of the skin. The active ingredients required for this are to be transported exactly where they can unfold their effects.
Our facial oils consist of carefully selected, exclusively natural and gently processed oils and extracts, all of which come from controlled organic cultivation or from wild collection.
Facial oil for every skin type
Oils have different properties and care effects for the skin due to their individual components. Due to the specific combination of oils, there is the right facial oil for every skin type. However, this should always be tailored to the current needs of the skin.
Normal skin shows no or only small deficits and therefore requires a care product that keeps the skin barrier intact and protects. This protection is important to keep the skin resistant. It should be able to defend itself against externally harmful influences, which are often also triggers for later skin problems.
Dry skin longs for appropriate fats, which it can retain in the skin, as well as for an intact skin barrier.
But why is the skin dry?
As is probably often experienced on one’s own body, water can dry out our skin – as with long bathing or frequent hand washing. This happens mainly because the skin’s own fats are dissolved out. Especially in combination with soaps that contain surfactants or saponins, this happens much faster. After all, removing dirt and grease is the job of a soap. The disadvantage, however, is the removal of the important skin fat and the destruction of the natural skin barrier.
Now, by washing or cleansing the facial skin, the important fat is released from the skin and then usually a face cream is applied. Although this cream – an emulsion of water and fat – moisturizes for a short time, it has the opposite effect in the long run: the skin dries out further and further, the skin barrier is destroyed.
For dry skin, the following points are particularly important:
- Suitable fats must be offered to the skin so that the fat layer can be rebuilt.
- The natural skin barrier must be regenerated and intact so that the skin fats can be kept back in the skin.
It is precisely these functions that a facial oil for dry skin must fulfil.
Facial oil for dry skin
Dry skin tolerates – especially at the beginning of the application – a “moisturizing” facial oil. Moisturizing are e.B oils that contain a high proportion of oleic acid. Examples include marula oil, apricot kernel oil or olive oil.
With the application of a single moisturizing oil, however, the same effect as with the appropriate combination of oils and active ingredients will never be achieved. A specific composition is therefore important in order to transport the substances exactly where they are supposed to work in order to rebuild the skin barrier.
Once the natural protective layer of the facial skin has been regenerated, you can switch to a care product for normal skin. It is then important to keep the skin barrier intact.
Oil also for impure oily skin?
Admittedly, it sounds paradoxical, but it is not. Certain oils contain sebum-regulating ingredients. These signal to the skin that it can reduce its sebum production. Oils rich in linoleic acid are ideal for impure and oily skin. Such oils are, for example, Kalahari melon oil, argan oil, grape seed oil or hemp seed oil. They can – again in the appropriate combination with other oils – penetrate deep into the skin and thus unfold their effect. Often oils with a lot of linoleic acid also contain a high proportion of vitamin E. This vitamin is a powerful antioxidant and is often referred to as the “Anti Aging Vitamin”. It can have an anti-inflammatory effect as well as promote cell renewal. Skin impurities and inflammation can thus be alleviated.
People whose skin is prone to impurities should avoid comedogenic oils. These oils have a high content of oleic acid, which can clog the pores of the skin. Examples of comedogenic oils include coconut oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, and avocado oil. These oils are suitable in facial oils for dry skin, but not recommended for skin with impurities.
The use of the right facial oil for the appropriate skin type is therefore very important.
For care products for sensitive skin, care should be taken to ensure that the proportion of essential oils is not too high or that there are no essential oils at all. Essential oils contain allergens to which sensitive skin can react with allergic reactions and skin irritation.
Mature skin often lacks elasticity and moisture or skin fat. In particular, oils from seeds and nuts of plants are very well suited for mature skin, as they usually resemble the skin’s own fat very similar. External influences can accelerate skin aging. Therefore, light-protecting ingredients and antioxidants should also be incorporated into facial oils for mature skin. The most powerful antioxidant known is natural astaxanthin. It is a carotenoid from an algae, which has the property of both catching free radicals and having a light-protecting effect.
Facial oil for the winter
Normally, the uppermost layer of an intact skin has a moisture content of up to 40%. In winter, however, this moisture content can drop to less than 10% due to weather conditions and dry heating air. As a result, the skin’s natural protective barrier becomes permeable and external influences can penetrate the skin more easily. The skin is then exposed to cold, frost, snow, icy wind, UV light and pollutants almost defenseless. Sub-zero temperatures also cause the blood vessels under the skin to contract in order to preserve the heat inside. The skin is less supplied with blood and less oxygen and nutrients. Already from about 8 degrees Celsius, the sebaceous glands reduce the production of protective skin fat.
The result of this is often cracked, brittle and itching-prone skin, usually associated with feelings of tension and dandruff.
UV radiation is particularly high in winter because it is reflected by snow and ice.
In winter, we should therefore particularly support the natural protective layer of our skin. Therefore, it is advisable to use fat- or oil-based care products and not water-oil emulsions such as creams.
The use of face creams can cause frostbite on the skin at sub-zero temperatures, as the water molecules they contain can freeze.
Special needs of the lips
Lips do not have their own sebaceous and sweat glands and therefore cannot produce a protective greasy film. Therefore, they become slightly cracked and brittle, especially in winter. Our lips are also very sensitive to UV radiation. With a lip care that contains high-quality fats and a light sun protection, the lips are optimally protected and remain supple.
Skin and nutrition
In addition to the appropriate care, our diet is also crucial for healthy skin. This provides the building blocks for the renewal of the cells from the inside. The outer layer of the skin, also called the epidermis, completely renews itself within about 30 days. The appropriate diet is therefore particularly important with regard to the skin for the prevention of skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis, acne, etc., but also as a therapy.
The right PHYSTINE facial care for your current skin status
Dry skin / neurodermatitis
Impure skin / acne
Mature (non-dry) skin / anti-aging care
“Normal” skin (neither dry, fat, impure)
For individual advice, please contact us personally.